The ancient Roman banquet, known as a convivium, was more than just an elaborate meal. It was a social, cultural and political event that played a key role in Roman society. These banquets reflected the power, wealth and sophistication of the host while also providing a setting for the performance of Roman cultural values, such as hospitality, status and civic pride.
The Roman banquet evolved from simpler early Roman customs but was heavily influenced by Greek and Etruscan traditions.
During the early Roman Republic (509–27 BCE), banquets were simpler, often reflecting the conservative values of Roman society. During the Imperial Era of Roman Empire (27 BCE–476 CE), especially during the time of emperors like Augustus and Nero, banquets grew increasingly extravagant.
Emperors and wealthy elites hosted lavish feasts to display their wealth, power and social status, and to curry favour with political allies.
Roman banquets were often held in the triclinium, a dining room designed with three couches (hence the name “tri-clinium”) arranged in a U-shape around a central table. The guests (typically nine in number) reclined on couches rather than sitting on chairs. Guests would rest on their left elbow, leaning on cushions and using their right hand to eat. [Ed: Hmm … does that sound comfortable to you?]
A banquet typically consisted of three courses:
Gustatio (appetizers): This included small dishes like eggs, olives and salads … often served with wine mixed with honey (mulsum).
Prima Mensa (main course): The main dishes featured a variety of meats, seafood and other exotic fare. Roman cuisine was influenced by the availability of ingredients from across the empire … such as spices from the East and African game meats.
Secunda Mensa (desserts): Sweets, fruits and nuts were common during this course, along with more wine.
Wine flowed freely at Roman banquets. It was typically diluted with water. Entertainment was an essential part of the banquet, ranging from poetry readings and philosophical debates to musical performances and acrobatic shows. In some cases, gladiatorial games or other more elaborate spectacles were staged.
Banquets were opportunities for networking and patronage. Wealthy Romans would use these events to secure political alliances, display their influence or honour clients. The convivium was a space where political and business deals could be discussed informally.
The extravagance of the banquet was key, especially among the Roman elite. Hosts would compete to outdo one another in the lavishness of their meals, the rarity of their ingredients (such as peacock, flamingo tongues or exotic spices) … and the entertainment provided. Here are some other examples of ancient Roman culinary exotica: roast parrot, giraffe, ostrich, moray eel, jelly fish, garam (fermented fish sauce), water snake, sow’s womb(!) and figs stuffed with fowl. The Roman banquet was no place for the fussy eater.
Despite their popularity, these opulent feasts were criticised by moralists and philosophers for promoting excess and decadence. Figures like Cicero and Seneca were both regular dinner-party-poopers in this regard.
Luckily for those peacocks and flamingos the Roman Empire, like all empires, would eventually move into decline, and so did the grandeur of the Roman banquet.
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References
cnn.com/style/how-ancient-romans-feasted/index
historyskills.com/classroom/ancient-history/roman-feast
worldhistory.org/article/851/the-extent-of-the-roman-empire
Images
1. Roman Triclinium, or Dining Room, with Table and Couches
2. The Roman Empire at its height in 117 CE. Credit: worldhistory.org
3. The Roses of Heliogabalus by the Anglo-Dutch artist Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, 1888 depicts the young Roman emperor Elagabalus (203–222 CE) hosting a banquet.
4. An engraving of a banquet from around 80 BCE, Credit: Ullstein Bild/Getty Images
5. 2nd century mosaic depicts an unswept floor after a banquet, to disguise actual mess caused in celebration. Credit: De Agostini/Getty Images
6. Relieved flamingo with tongue
7. Apicius, De re culinaria (Lyon: Sebastianus Gryphium, 1541)
8. Book: DINING with the ANCIENT ROMANS by Giorgio Franchetti, 2018